Food is used ideologically to construct national identity, fueling gastronationalism and political division globally.
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A controversy sparked by historian Alberto Grandi’s work, which questioned the origins of Italian dishes like pizza and carbonara, has exposed a pervasive form of food chauvinism within Italy and beyond. This phenomenon is described as “banal nationalism,” where gastronomic pride becomes intertwined with national identity, often leading to exclusionary rhetoric about who belongs in a culture based on what they eat. Scholars note that concepts like “gastronationalism” and “gastronativism” illustrate how food is ideologically used to distinguish groups. The text also examines how states can promote specific culinary narratives, citing examples of state-driven dish creation in Spain or the historical role of cuisine in defining French national identity. Furthermore, the use of protected designations like PDO and PGI is analyzed as a form of “patrimonialisation,” turning culture into an economic asset that can fuel nationalism. The concept of “food sovereignty” is also critiqued for being co-opted to serve nationalist agendas rather than its original social purpose. Finally, the article shows how food issues are used in geopolitics, from disputes over dish origins between nations to populist politicians using traditional cuisine to mobilize voters against broader frameworks like the EU.
